Schematic For Echostar AD3000ip Power Supply

After setting the time and date. E.g 10:00 the time gets to 10:10 and back to 10:00 just like that keep on repeating and the date also stays the same without change
 
Hi. My unit blows the mains fuse when I connect it to the wall plug. I've checked for any short circuits with a multimeter but found nothing. I replaced R3 and both 470uF 200wv (one of them was faulty, the other one is ok). Still can't find any other faults. Unplugged from the wall it measures 450Kohm, I also measured on the pcb following the circuit and can't find any faults. I've been thinking of removing T1 and T2 from the pcb just to make sure that the problem is within the primary supply. Any suggestions?
 
It might be worth checking the current limiting thermistor next to the fuse. This prevents current kickback from the smoothing electrolytics when the power is initially applied, and can blow the fuse. When cold, the thermistor presents a (relatively) high resistance at the input to the power supply.if the resistance is too low at switch-on, the fuse will blow.

Not sure ATM what it should be when cold, I'll look it up later.
 
thanks for your reply, i'll try removing the thermistor and see what happens.
 
You can remove it to read its value, but can't leave it out, as you'll just have an open circuit to the power supply.
 
Hi,Need help with my 3000ip,when i push the power on the display just keeps going round and round.I have check the power supply and i got the following reading:-
SKEW = 4.8 - 5.3v
M-P = 4.2-4.5v
WEST = 4.8-5.3v
EAST = 4.8-5.3v
5VS = 4.9-5.4v
PCS = 4.3-4.9v
30V = 33.4-34v
21V = 22.7-23v
G
12V = 11.3-11.9v
G
5VD = 4.9-5.4
8V = 7.9-8.4
G
I have change all the electrolytic caps. on the secondary side of the power supply but the problem is still the.do not know what is the problem. Any help is very welcome.Am not a pro in electronics just leaning and have just a multimeter.
 
A circling dash on the display is almost always a sign of eeprom failure, unfortunately a well-known problem with Echostars fitted with a certain batch run of eeproms.

They need special desoldering equipment to remove and replace, being surface-mounted chips, and even then you would need to replace it with one that's been programmed specifically with AD3000 firmware.

If it's just a corrupted eeprom, you could try loading a firmware bin file to the box using the Echostar loader, but there's probably only a 1% chance of success.
 
Thanks very much Llew for your help i appreciate it. I have tried to use echoloader but did not work.I do not know which one of them is the Eeprom ?.There is one marked EAP7001 is it the eeprom?.I can fined a repaire shop to disolder it. I have the Willem Eeprom programmer but do not know if i can program it directly without disoldering the eeprom.I will give it a try! If there is any other idea i will be glad to read. Thanks once more.
 
Yes it's the one in the bottom RH corner, usually with a label stuck on it. It's an Atmel eeprom ATBV1614.

One of my AD3000's has the same problem, been using a Macraigor OCD flash programmer trying to access the eeprom through the CPU with little success (so far).

I've got some circuit diagrams for the CPU and eeprom somewhere, I'll upload them when I find them.
 
Here's some info that might be helpful if you want to try accessing the eeprom through the CPU. I don't yet know of a way of programming the eeprom directly in situ.

THe IBM PowerPC in the AD3000ip uses a PPC401D2 core. See the pdf included. Page 5.8 shows the JTAG header details. You will need to solder a 16-pin header adjacent to the PowerPC chip as I have done in the pic. The JTAG connections on the header are (from right to left top, right to left bottom) -

Top row
--------

Pin 1 TDO
Pin 3 TDI
Pin 7 TCK
Pin 9 TMS
Pin 11 Proc Halt

Bottom row
-----------

Pin 4 TRST
Pin 6 Power (not needed, receiver supplies it)
Pin 16 Ground

I can access the CPU's registers with my programmer, but that's all. I have had no luck targetting the eeprom (erasing etc.) at least so far.

Pinouts of the Atmel uploaded too.
 

Attachments

Thanks very much Llew for the info, I will work on it this week end and post back my result.
 
Hi Llew. Thanks for the hard work. Is this similar to the 3600ip psu? as mine has gone phut! Cp2 has shorted tacking out rp1? I think these equate to r1 & c6 on your drawing, do you have these values.
Best regards Chas.
 
Hi grisk, welcome to the forum.

Not having a AD3600ip, I can't tell you if the power supply is similar or is indeed a completely different design.

Assuming there are some similarities, if you mean the RC network across the TRIAC (TR1 on the AD3000ip), the values are: R1 = 100R 2W and C6 = 104 (100n) 400V.

If you have to change the TRIAC, it's a BT137 (on mine, anyway).
 
Hi,
I got one of these things of eBay a few months ago, and when plugged in, the current limiting thermistor promptly removed itself from the circuitboard forcefully. After it's been sitting in a cupboard for a while I thought I'd look into getting a replacement. My question is, would a 2.5 ohm 5A one do the trick? I know it should really be somewhere in the region of a 1A one (120 ohm) however rapid have a minimum order of 1000 on the 1A ones! _http://www.rapidonline.com/Electronic-Components/Filters-Suppression/NTC-Inrush-Limiters/NTC-Inrush-limiters/31809/kw/inrush+current+limitor

I'm thinking that this should probably do the trick of taking the edge off the inrush. If you think it'd be too much inrush current still, any ideas of where to get a more suitable one?
 
Try Radiospares. They do a 5A 5 Ohm one which should be suitable. 2.5 Ohm might be too low a value - I think the one in the SMPS is around 5 Ohms.

_http://uk.rs-online.com/web/search/searchBrowseAction.html?method=searchProducts&searchTerm=inrush+cur&x=39&y=20

Enter Item no. 516-7833 in the search field.

Seems they do them as as a one-off purchase.
 
Hi Llew. Sorry for not replying sooner ...Thanks again for the info...All up and running again (a lot cooler now) I didn't have to replace the triac....yet?
Have a good xmas & new year.
Best regards Chas.
 
Hi Chas. Glad you're up and running again. Season's greetings to yourself too :-sugar
 
Llew said:
Try Radiospares. They do a 5A 5 Ohm one which should be suitable. 2.5 Ohm might be too low a value - I think the one in the SMPS is around 5 Ohms.

_http://uk.rs-online.com/web/search/searchBrowseAction.html?method=searchProducts&searchTerm=inrush+cur&x=39&y=20

Enter Item no. 516-7833 in the search field.

Seems they do them as as a one-off purchase.
Click to expand...

Thanks. It worked nicely.
 
Glad to hear it :-thumbup
 
thank you for the schematic power suppy, I change R31 15Kohm unreadable with a value of 20K measured.
now the receiver can be power on, but the display is turning continously.
there is no acitivity on the microprocessor bus and no display on the tv, it seems a software problem
is there a secret command to flash the software back through the serial cross cable? (like dreambox poweron when pushing the on button)
all the button of the remote control light on the dot top left, and I can on off also
thank you
didier delaey retired engineer
 
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