Jaeger 1224 restoration

I

itchybag

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started stripping down after soaking for a few days, think a grinder might be needed for the top plate bolts.

will these thread hammer out in any direction?1728820932471.jpg1728820932436.jpg
 
ive also removed the bottom nut from the swing bolt. is the only thing holding that inplace now corrosion?

the bottom plate came off easy also. the top plate though, the previous owner has already sheered 1 bolt off.

edit i just sheered the other 2 off so at least the top and bottom plates are off.
 
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take a hammer and hit it until it comes out then replace everything with a stainless steel bar and you will see that you will no longer have problems
as I had done in my modified 1224 EL
 
2 of the top plate bolts that sheered may come out with a bit of heat and some mole grips, the other is flush so will have to be drilled.
 
anyone got the measurements of the 3 threaded bars, i should have checked yesterday but didnt
 
Some of the bolts on the Jaeger 1224 are not conventional thread sizes, they are not metric. Others are metric.

I think the saddle clamp bolt and elevation axis pivot bolt are odd threads if original and not replaced.
The original U bolts are also an odd thread size unless replaced. The originals are more of a V than a U.

I binned the odd thread size ones and replaced them with stainless steel metric equivalents.
 
moonbase said:
Some of the bolts on the Jaeger 1224 are not conventional thread sizes, they are not metric. Others are metric.

I think the saddle clamp bolt and elevation axis pivot bolt are odd threads if original and not replaced.
The original U bolts are also an odd thread size unless replaced. The originals are more of a V than a U.

I binned the odd thread size ones and replaced them with stainless steel metric equivalents.
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Toolstation have stainless m12 1000mm for £12. waiting for another fabricator to get back to me to see what they can do with the swing eyebolt. Asked if they can leave the eye undrilled as an option.
 
Progress. Fitting a bath but my workshop is out side and the weather is nice.

Whats nicer though is i saved the Elevation bolt. Knacked 2 thread turns on the bottom (screwed a nut on n smacked that) after heating the joint up. Now to remove the alloy plate n get those snapped bolts out.
1729350612668.jpg
 
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the allen bolt and nut on the side came out easily. the screw on the opposite side though is rusted to bits. Will the bar knock though with that screw in or does it come out the bolt side?
 
zero progress today. drilled through 1 of the top bolts and at breakout snapped the drill bit. Hopefully i dont got through a dozen drill bits along the way.
 
Did you heat up the alloy plate to a decent temerature with a clamp on the bolt remains ?
 
Channel Hopper said:
Did you heat up the alloy plate to a decent temerature with a clamp on the bolt remains ?
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only thing i did today was drill through 1 of the top bolts before it snapped. Was waiting for confirmation the centre pin can be removed with screw left in. using a heat mat so hopefully the internels and the plastic survive.
 
itchybag said:
the allen bolt and nut on the side came out easily. the screw on the opposite side though is rusted to bits. Will the bar knock though with that screw in or does it come out the bolt side?
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Once the nut is off, I used a lot of penetrating fluid (WD40 but there are better options) and heat to free it up. I then use a centre punch on the centre of the bolt on the nut side and knock the carp out of it. Say goodbye to the centre punch...

Then once the top triangular plate is off, you can tackle the snapped bolts with the same heat and WD40 fluid. The two that have visible thread, looks like you can use something like plumbers pliers to grab a hold of them and screw them out. The remaining one, you likely have to drill through the middle and use a bolt extractor set to screw it out.

It's a total pain the in backside job - removing that plate...
 
Captain Jack said:
Once the nut is off, I used a lot of penetrating fluid (WD40 but there are better options) and heat to free it up. I then use a centre punch on the centre of the bolt on the nut side and knock the carp out of it. Say goodbye to the centre punch...

Then once the top triangular plate is off, you can tackle the snapped bolts with the same heat and WD40 fluid. The two that have visible thread, looks like you can use something like plumbers pliers to grab a hold of them and screw them out. The remaining one, you likely have to drill through the middle and use a bolt extractor set to screw it out.

It's a total pain the in backside job - removing that plate...
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the centre pin thread the bolt is on that comes off easy doesnt look like it can take much punishment. is there an suitable replacement? weres a lathe when ya need 1 :) im sure once the pin is out the main shaft will be equally as snug. theres zero play in it which is a good thing
 
Yes, it's pretty much welded in with rust. When I do eventually get it out, I replace it with a larger stainless steel bolt to replace the little tube shaft+bolt combination.

Pretty sure you could find a tube of similar size on eBay but I found the bolt works just as well.
 
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Captain Jack said:
Yes, it's pretty much welded in with rust. When I do eventually get it out, I replace it with a larger stainless steel bolt to replace the little tube shaft+bolt combination.

Pretty sure you could find a tube of similar size on eBay but I found
the bolt works just as well.
Click to expand...

yeah alot of force going through that under wind load so i dont want to screw that up
 
Sandblasting, for sure, would be much faster. That what I miss in my workshop!
 
RimaNTSS said:
Sandblasting, for sure, would be much faster. That what I miss in my workshop!
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yeah, if you need the parts quick then electrolysis isnt the way to go. Is dirt cheap though and ideal when your doing something else. A bag of Soda crystals, bought 1kg used half, some scrap metal and something to put your rusty parts in and leave for 24 hours connected to a 12v battery charger. Passive rust removal :)
 
Creaping along at a snails pace. 2 bolts out of the top plate, the 1 with a decent amount of thread came out easy using 2 bolts then just backed it out after warming it up. Mole grips n a load of heat for the second one, bad light stopped play but the 3rd looks like its gonna need drilling out and retapping.
 
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