New toy - Jaegar SMO36

[Captain Jack]

It started. There's absolutely no way I would have been able to get the top plate off without the puller. I opted for a more heavier duty one, rather than eBay special and it was hard work but eventually it gave way.

It didn't look overly rusted or welded - just extremely tight. No hammer would have shifted that. Sadly, the work bench didn't survive, so need to replace the crappy wooden bits.

 

[Channel Hopper]

Now the rest of the motor casings are shown, that corrosion looks to have spread to the bolts holding the gearbox in place.

As per my original post, tightening (or loosening) bolts can crack the housing on this model.

 

[Captain Jack]

Specifically, which bolts? I wanted to get the bottom bit off to get it powder coated (not sure you can do that with alloys?) but if it's too much of a risk, I'll leave it alone and clean it in it situ with a wire brush.

 

[purplemarina]

Reference the work bench, i know somebody who was stood on one of those painting a high wall when it broke the same as yours, very lucky not to hurt hisself

 

[Channel Hopper]

Specifically, which bolts? I wanted to get the bottom bit off to get it powder coated (not sure you can do that with alloys?) but if it's too much of a risk, I'll leave it alone and clean it in it situ with a wire brush.

Try and get the electrics out first with a good set of screwdrivers, then penetrating fluid everywhere, followed by a bath in non-ionised water

 

[Captain Jack]

Will try. What is the purpose of deionised water? For rinsing off the fluid or something else?

 

[Channel Hopper]

Tap water will leave deposits in the cavities which defeat the object of cleaning. Some areas have a high concentration of chalk in the water, alkaline that will mark Asian aluminium alloy with black streaks, I think it is called katoite but my chemistry days are way back.

 

[Captain Jack]

Yeah I know what the water is but what is the purpose of bathing the motor in it?

 

[Channel Hopper]

Yeah I know what the water is but what is the purpose of bathing the motor in it?

Penetrating fluid (well the ones here) contain acetone which reacts with the bolts holding the parts onto the casing. It is soluble in water leaving just the lubricant from the penetrating fluid once it has got into the seized threads.

 

[Captain Jack]

Gotcha. I've managed to get the bottom plate off with the puller - thankfully it wasn't as seized as the top one.

I see there are 4 ball bearings in total that could probably do with replacing. Hopefully they don't need to be pressed out/in.

The inside looks generally serviceable but a bit corroded so definitely need a clean and a lube.

 

[itchybag]

can you access a bearing for its dimensions? 25mm inner diameter im guessing. i never measure the outer diameter or depth of those on my 1224. they cleaned up really well. a cheap bearing puller off ebay was sufficient, i just had to remove the rust first.

 

[Captain Jack]

can you access a bearing for its dimensions? 25mm inner diameter im guessing. i never measure the outer diameter or depth of those on my 1224. they cleaned up really well. a cheap bearing puller off ebay was sufficient, i just had to remove the rust first.

The bearings actually look fine. Some dried up grease but once freed, it's nice and smooth.

Dropped off the bits for the sandblast + powder coat + degreasing of the gears and rust removal.

 

[itchybag]

The bearings actually look fine. Some dried up grease but once freed, it's nice and smooth.

Dropped off the bits for the sandblast + powder coat + degreasing of the gears and rust removal.

you could feel the e/w limits on the bearings once i removed mine. They have spent there whole time only ever rotating less than half a turn back n forth. Soaked in solvent degreaser and a scrub with a toothbrush they came up like new.

 

[Captain Jack]

The bits are back from the blasters - looking good! Not quite new as there is quite a bit of pitting but scrubbed up well otherwise.

Now to find the time to put it back together!

What's the best way to refurbish the plastic housing? It's all in one piece with no cracks but looking grubby and faded. Scrub it up and paint or is there a better, more resilient way? I've seen some people used a bit of heat to restore faded black bumpers so all the oils come back to the surface but this is quite a thin piece of plastic and will likely deform if attacked with heat.

 

[itchybag]

The bits are back from the blasters - looking good! Not quite new as there is quite a bit of pitting but scrubbed up well otherwise.

Now to find the time to put it back together!

What's the best way to refurbish the plastic housing? It's all in one piece with no cracks but looking grubby and faded. Scrub it up and paint or is there a better, more resilient way? I've seen some people used a bit of heat to restore faded black bumpers so all the oils come back to the surface but this is quite a thin piece of plastic and will likely deform if attacked with heat.

You could paint it, would need to use an adhesion promotor though. Car bumper back to black will smarten it up. Not permanent solution though. My 1224 has already got a load of bird crap on it

 

[moonbase]

The bits are back from the blasters - looking good! Not quite new as there is quite a bit of pitting but scrubbed up well otherwise.

Now to find the time to put it back together!

What's the best way to refurbish the plastic housing? It's all in one piece with no cracks but looking grubby and faded. Scrub it up and paint or is there a better, more resilient way? I've seen some people used a bit of heat to restore faded black bumpers so all the oils come back to the surface but this is quite a thin piece of plastic and will likely deform if attacked with heat.

Have you got a dual action or rotary machine polisher, something like the ones used on cars? One of them with a pad and some compound should freshen it up?

 

[itchybag]

Have you got a dual action or rotary machine polisher, something like the ones used on cars? One of them with a pad and some compound should freshen it up?

A cheap headlights polishing kit good enough for parts you can hand hold. Bosh it on an electric drill

 

[itchybag]

The bits are back from the blasters - looking good! Not quite new as there is quite a bit of pitting but scrubbed up well otherwise.

Now to find the time to put it back together!

What's the best way to refurbish the plastic housing? It's all in one piece with no cracks but looking grubby and faded. Scrub it up and paint or is there a better, more resilient way? I've seen some people used a bit of heat to restore faded black bumpers so all the oils come back to the surface but this is quite a thin piece of plastic and will likely deform if attacked with heat.

nice to see they didnt powder coat the bolt hole threads. had to gently run taps into mine.

 

[Channel Hopper]

The bits are back from the blasters - looking good! Not quite new as there is quite a bit of pitting but scrubbed up well otherwise.

Now to find the time to put it back together!

What's the best way to refurbish the plastic housing? It's all in one piece with no cracks but looking grubby and faded. Scrub it up and paint or is there a better, more resilient way? I've seen some people used a bit of heat to restore faded black bumpers so all the oils come back to the surface but this is quite a thin piece of plastic and will likely deform if attacked with heat.

Solvol (autosol) used to do a plastic trim restoring paste that worked rather well.

 

[Captain Jack]

Progress has been slow owing to lack of time and general lethargy but started putting it back together a couple of weeks ago.

I am also fabricating some new brackets for it to hang my dishes on (will try the Laminas again) so those will be getting dropped off next week for a bit of galvanising.

Oddly, it's cheaper to buy mild steel and galvanise than buying the same thing in stainless steel.