Channel master frankensteined

It seems simple, but it's all about the small details. I would buy this even though it's expensive, but the shipping would add another 1000, which is absolutely pointless… I’ll have to go with a DIY approach. Luckily, I still have some antennas from the same manufacturer that haven’t been mounted yet, so I’ll do everything on the ground. I bought my Channel Master 2.4 with double reflection and the Prodelin two years ago, and a year later I came across an ad from abroad where they were selling an entire warehouse full of antennas for €250. I took a van and drove about 150 km — the warehouse had two CM 2.4m antennas in perfect condition, one 1.25m CM, and two small complete antennas. Unfortunately, there was no polar mount for the 2.4m CM, and I was hoping to find one in that pile. In addition, I got two Motorola AP internet dishes that look like water heaters. All in all, I moved everything into storage because I don't need it right now. I'd gladly trade one CM for a polar mount. I barely got those antennas across the border — I spent two days sorting out paperwork and waiting at the crossing. In the end, I had to give up three of the smaller antennas because, as a private individual, I’m not allowed to purchase that many antennas.That's why it feels absurd to pay this much money for a polar mount...
 
janixxx said:
It seems simple, but it's all about the small details. I would buy this even though it's expensive, but the shipping would add another 1000, which is absolutely pointless… I’ll have to go with a DIY approach. Luckily, I still have some antennas from the same manufacturer that haven’t been mounted yet, so I’ll do everything on the ground. I bought my Channel Master 2.4 with double reflection and the Prodelin two years ago, and a year later I came across an ad from abroad where they were selling an entire warehouse full of antennas for €250. I took a van and drove about 150 km — the warehouse had two CM 2.4m antennas in perfect condition, one 1.25m CM, and two small complete antennas. Unfortunately, there was no polar mount for the 2.4m CM, and I was hoping to find one in that pile. In addition, I got two Motorola AP internet dishes that look like water heaters. All in all, I moved everything into storage because I don't need it right now. I'd gladly trade one CM for a polar mount. I barely got those antennas across the border — I spent two days sorting out paperwork and waiting at the crossing. In the end, I had to give up three of the smaller antennas because, as a private individual, I’m not allowed to purchase that many antennas.That's why it feels absurd to pay this much money for a polar mount...
Click to expand...
If you could provide whereabouts in 'Europe', as per your profile, there might be a better shipping price from forum members, or you might work out a worthwhile cost collection radius before taking a van /driving/sorting paperwork for xxx days.
 
.In what way does this type of reflector improve reception?
 
janixxx said:
It seems simple, but it's all about the small details. I would buy this even though it's expensive, but the shipping would add another 1000, which is absolutely pointless… I’ll have to go with a DIY approach. Luckily, I still have some antennas from the same manufacturer that haven’t been mounted yet, so I’ll do everything on the ground. I bought my Channel Master 2.4 with double reflection and the Prodelin two years ago, and a year later I came across an ad from abroad where they were selling an entire warehouse full of antennas for €250. I took a van and drove about 150 km — the warehouse had two CM 2.4m antennas in perfect condition, one 1.25m CM, and two small complete antennas. Unfortunately, there was no polar mount for the 2.4m CM, and I was hoping to find one in that pile. In addition, I got two Motorola AP internet dishes that look like water heaters. All in all, I moved everything into storage because I don't need it right now. I'd gladly trade one CM for a polar mount. I barely got those antennas across the border — I spent two days sorting out paperwork and waiting at the crossing. In the end, I had to give up three of the smaller antennas because, as a private individual, I’m not allowed to purchase that many antennas.That's why it feels absurd to pay this much money for a polar mount...
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Indeed - its a shame there was no polar mount with your 2.4 c.m. .. second hand polar mounts for 1.8 and 2.4 Channel masters are all but impossible to find it seems .... my 2.4 dish came with a dual axis mount - extremely strong - but with only limited arc ability ... thus i ended up clamping it to my existing 1.8 polar mount
keep looking though, you may just drop lucky and find one :)
 
Today, after a long time, I went into the warehouse I bought, started pulling parts out of the pile, and realized that I might actually have the motorized mount I've been looking for. I’ll now upload a few pictures so someone can confirm whether it’s a polar mount. I hope all the parts are there.
 

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El/Az mount, but with two actuators you can motorise it
 
It sounds quite complicated. It means almost nothing to me if it doesn’t follow Clarke’s orbit. Two motors are not a problem, but if I also have to constantly adjust the LNB, it sounds very impractical.
 
janixxx said:
... but if I also have to constantly adjust the LNB, it sounds very impractical.
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It is, indeed. So a polar mount has some obvious advantages for a motorized dish, over an AzEl mount.

Only other (theoretical) option would be to put the pole for the AzEl mount in the exact axis elevation angle towards due south/north, as you would need with a polar mount.
In that case, the dish and LNB skew would follow the arc again.
I don't think, though, that the bolt that would be the axis in your case, is fit to function permanently as an axis.
It would be more a fun/experimenter setup, I guess.
And I must confess: I've never seen this done in practice.
So maybe forget that I have written this.... o_O

Greetz,
A33
 
a33 said:
It is, indeed. So a polar mount has some obvious advantages for a motorized dish, over an AzEl mount.

Only other (theoretical) option would be to put the pole for the AzEl mount in the exact axis elevation angle towards due south/north, as you would need with a polar mount.
In that case, the dish and LNB skew would follow the arc again.
I don't think, though, that the bolt that would be the axis in your case, is fit to function permanently as an axis.
It would be more a fun/experimenter setup, I guess.
And I must confess: I've never seen this done in practice.
So maybe forget that I have written this.... o_O

Greetz,
A33
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A Polarotor (or CoRotor) , old school but perfectly acceptable.
 
In my case, this option is out, because I use the antenna frequently, change its position often, and I want everything to work simply. The only solution is a classic polar mount. At the moment, I have one with my Mabo 1.8x2.05 antenna attached to it. I plan to remove it and take it to a metalworker to have the same mount made from stronger material, with the hole spacing matching my antenna. I'm not sure if it's feasible, but I can't think of any better option...
 
Polar vs az/el mount wins every time in my opinion.
I would invite those seriously interested to check a local astronomy club meet.
An advantage of the modern az/al motorized telescope mounts of the likes of Celestron and others is that they use GPS.
You would see one of these setup and leveled and operating in a few minutes. Although I would not be so sure of how a time lapse photo would look taking into consideration of the constant stepper motor and gear reduction mechanism involved.

An equatorial mount on the other hand requires sighting Polaris (your latitude adjustment), leveling the mount, a few other setup checks.
Called a Polar Alignment.
Then manually or with motor assist setting the right ascension and decllination (fixed and locked for each object to be tracked) from degree wheel markings (setting circles).
After that tracking the stars is a simple one axis movement of the RA.

On YouTube saveitforparts has taken a Winegard Trav'ler and added a controller to have it track LEO satellites.

It has although crossed my mind for an evening project with surplus hardware supply house parts to take your standard wall/roof mount small dish assembly and make it into a polar mount.
All it would take is a few pillow block bearings bolted or welded to the dish mount pole.
A metal shaft to pass through them with a welded plate to bolt the reflector to. And a means to add declination.
A tilt and turn of the modified pole to lean back to your latitude and aimed true South. It could work.

Although a bit pricey. The Research Concepts az/el controllers can be had on eBay for a good deal at the right times.
The expensive part is once you realize that a web interface that allows controlling them with any web browser.
And two line element software is available. Probably the last dish mover you would ever need. Polar or az/el.
TLE should allow tracking inclined orbit satellites with ease.

I am new here but this hobby interests me a lot.
 
sky_walker said:
But it might be. Correct?
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A flat submirror, that is funny!
It would mean that the focal point of the primary mirror is even further away from the dish than the secondary mirror. So the arm of the dish can really be short (shorter than the focal length)!

Interesting!

Greetz,
A33.
 
a33 said:
A flat submirror, that is funny!
It would mean that the focal point of the primary mirror is even further away from the dish than the secondary mirror. So the arm of the dish can really be short (shorter than the focal length)!

Interesting!

Greetz,
A33.
Click to expand...
I do not have the experience to know the different specifications for reflectors of different bands. But the Raven is a ka band dish. The tria and ku feeds are shown. As is the retrofit of a ku band triple lnb. It is where the highest signal was obtained. I do try to learn as well as offer well thought input. Looking at an online reflector antenna simulator. Adding a subreflector appears as if the beams can be collimated differently, depending upon the type and at different beam point in the path.
 

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This thread gave me an answer about the difference (especially post #2):

A flat mirror leaves the focal distance intact.

A hyperbolic mirror extends the focal distance.
This is especially practical when the sub is blocking the signal, as it allows you to put the submirror nearer to the focal point (so needing a smaller diameter), while still having some space in front of the LNB.

Interesting, I never knew/realized that!

Greetz,
A33
 
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